The history of cashmere

It is believed that the unsurpassed quality of processing any type of wool belongs to the masters of Scotland – there are perfect natural conditions for merino wool, which are such that the best merino wool is “born”, which developed national culture of wool spinning. Ironically, the sharply continental climate needed to grow cashmere undercoat is not the privilege of this “foggy Albion”, and Scottish craftsmen can only process the cashmere raw purchased in China and Mongolia.
After Scottish, Italian, French, German cashmere knitwear are valued more than others, however, some countries of the Third World are ready to compete for the first place in this list. The Italian cashmere knitwear are considered to be the best cashmere knitwear, as its quality is so high that you want to go to bed in a turtleneck or sweater. They are as comfortable, environmentally friendly and can boast of an “enveloping” and gentle-warming effect.
The highest quality is considered to be cashmere knitwear of two types:

- knitted from a highly twisted thin thread, which gives a low “fluffy” effect- barely noticeable fluff can be seen on the folds. This wool doesn’t pill in places of physiological friction.
- knitwear knitted from a complex thread. Several threads form a hollow, loose cashmere thread inside, which gives the product a unique fullness, without weighing it down at all (cashmere is very light).
Historically, all the stages of obtaining cashmere yarn are very laborious, expensive (require certain qualifications from workers) and truly specific, moreover, the result depends on the quality of the initial raw materials. Therefore, a finished product from cashmere cannot be cheap or even average in cost.
But cashmere things with the “shaggy” effect - when there is a lot of fluff and it is clearly visible, they are considered to be of less quality, since there is a presence of coarse hair fibers in the cashmere fluff, and a low twisting density will lead to a rapid loss of some cashmere in the places of friction.

Like any yarn, cashmere differs in spinning style.

Card system is the most common system. The combing of fibers is carried out on carding machines. A thin layer of fibers removed from these machines are formed into a tape. Then the tape is pulled in the exhaust machines reaching a certain thickness. Carded yarn has medium purity, but insufficient smoothness due to the sticking ends of short fibers that are not completely removed during carding.
The comb system is the longest spinning process, because in addition to the operations of the carding method, it provides additional fibers combing on a special combing machines. While combing, short fibers are removed from the pulp, and long ones are straightened and arranged parallel to the axis of the thread. This makes combed yarn smooth and compact, and the number of fibers in the cross section is even, so that the yarn has less fluctuations in thickness, linear density and twist, and is characterized by increased strength and smoothness. Combed yarn is the purest and the finest.
Products of the highest quality are produced from combed yarn. However, the usage of combed systems rise the price of yarn.